abril 25, 2024

Givenchy Artistic Director Matthew M. Williams staged his Spring-Summer 2024 Men’s show at the Hôtel des Invalides in Paris, continuing an exploration around the codes of the classic gentleman’s wardrobe and a new culture of masculine dressing.

The school uniform was among the archetypes studied in the collection, re-appropriated according to a teenage-driven desire for customization, including hacked-off denim shorts and low-rise pants. Layered plays on alternating lengths figure at the heart of the collection. Shrunken sweatshirts and polos take turns with suits, ties and overflowing shirts. Proportions oscillate stylishly in flowing pieces such as longline t-shirts decorated with oversized grommets, cutout sweaters with elongated sleeves and wide leg flared trousers. Utilitarian, technical and military details appear on nylon outerwear and sleeveless tops, plays of webbing, bags worn around the waist and backpacks.

Accessories include jewelry that pays homage to Hubert de Givenchy in adaptations of orchids, one of his favorite flowers. The collection opened and closed with monochrome white and black silhouettes that revisit the art of men’s tailoring with double-breasted blazers, sculpted square shoulders, silk lapel tuxedos and sleeveless jumpsuits, fusing elegance and freedom.  

© ARR

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